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From the Atlantic to the Pacific via the Panama Canal

This is AussieWinlink's report about a cruise by sailboat from the Atlantic to the Pacific side of the Americas via the Panama Canal. Of special interest was observing Winlink use at only 10 Watts of power by our host on S/Y Atlantis and others. However, because of the importance of this topic, it will be covered in a special Media Release.

Maps: The general area covered by the cruise, including the Las Perlas Islands

Air Travel to Panama: The story would not be complete without also describing the travails of flying with Delta Airlines from Washington DC to Panama City to meet the hosts whose vessel was anchored in Colon on the Atlantic side of the Panama Canal. The proposed flight was thought to be a good opportunity to cash in on the 500,000 or so accumulated frequent flyer points. Unfortunately, Ms. "No" was on duty at Delta and there was obviously no intention at all to award any free frequent flyer travel. AussieWinlink was put on hold with the pretext of "checking with other colleagues to ask if they had any seats available." As expected, after a while Delta just hung up. As it provides the most convenient connection, a full-fare ticket was booked with Delta anyway. On the day of departure it rained and all air travel in and out of Washington DC was delayed. However, Delta gave repeated assurances that the connection in Atlanta for the flight to Panama City would be fine. However, when arriving in Atlanta it was clear that the connecting flight had already left right on time without waiting for connecting passengers. Telephone calls to Delta seeking rerouting opportunities were rejected out of hand; however, a face-to-face meeting with transfer desk personnel in Atlanta was more productive. This was due in large part because of the insistence of a business executive who needed to be in Panama City to make a commercial presentation. Some of us were eventually rescheduled to fly via Miami, stay there overnight and from there fly with COPA, the Panamanian carrier, to Panama City. Despite assurances that luggage would be transferred on time to the connecting flights, this wasn't done either and it arrived in Panama City three days later. The experience left the general impression that Delta staff, from captains to luggage handlers, are all so demoralized by the threat of the airline's possible bankruptcy that they have all but given up on providing service. Their attitude can be understood after having served the airline for many years.


PANAMA CANAL TRANSIT

Transit Procedure: There does not appear to be on the Panama Canal Commission's website a description of the procedure that applies for the transit of recreational yachts through the canal. Many cruisers make a trial run by assisting fellow cruisers as "line handlers" on a canal transit and they then travel back by bus to the anchorage in Colon for their own transit. AussieWinlink had agreed to take part in such a trial run by assisting the sailing yacht "Libelle" out of Australia.

Libelle: Route traveled and projected and Skipper Tim Lamble at his navigation station

Because of the flight delays, AussieWinlink arrived in Panama City 15 hours later than scheduled. This meant that after reporting the missing luggage and taking the bus ride from Panama City to Colon only thirty minutes remained after boarding S/Y Atlantis, the host boat, to transfer to "Libelle" in preparation of the transit. The story told below and the photos shown are a composite of several transits on different boats.

A noted cruising guide tells cruisers that it generally takes only three days following arrival by boat in Colon to get scheduled for a transit. That is not so now! Most cruisers have to wait for up to three weeks. On arrival by boat in Colon, it is necessary to clear with Immigration, Customs and Harbor Authorities. It then requires a telephone call or a visit to the Panama Canal Commission to request scheduling for a transit. Soon, PCC will send an Admeasurer. He will survey the yacht, measuring its length, check the availability of required safety equipment, and interview the skipper about the vessel's speed under power. The latter is because recreational vessels that travel less than five knots, and therefore probably cannot make the transit in one run, will be prohibited from using the canal. From then on it is necessary to make a daily check with PCC to get a tentative date for the transit. It appears that the long wait before a slot is available is not because of a lack of space in the locks but perhaps more so because of the shortage of PCC line-handlers that assist small boats through the locks.

Colon: While waiting for the appointed date, cruisers have two options: (1) Take a slip (if available) at the Panama Canal Yacht Club (PCYC) or anchor out on The Flats. The PCYC has probably more than 100 slips but a large proportion appear to be permanently occupied by club members, Live-onboards and several derelict vessels. Nevertheless, the facilities, if a slip is available, are quite adequate. The club area is protected by security personnel which is an absolute necessity in Colon. The Flats comprise a specially designated anchorage with a water depth of about 10 meters (30 feet). It is a relatively safe anchorage. First, because it is located well within the area protected by a major breakwater. Second, being in the Canal Zone and somewhat remote, fellow cruisers on the nearby anchored boats waiting for their turn to transit keep a watch. There do not appear to be any records of piracy. In any event, it appears that potential pirates in Colon are probably so poor that they couldn't afford a power boat with an engine large enough for a quick getaway.


Colon: Boats anchored on "The Flats" at Colon (Atlantis is at left foreground)

The Cristobal area of Colon can be likened to the gates to hell. The place is filthy, crowded and congested. Setting foot outside the PCYC grounds at any time during the day is dangerous. Even during our relatively short stay, there were several holdups and attempted robberies of cruisers, sometimes by teenagers. Twice during our short stay there were civil disturbances with gun battles erupting between the police and/or the Army and protesters. While there is reasonable shopping at a few large supermarkets, at some local markets and good local bakeries, these are best visited by taxi.

The Transit: The transit consists of six (6) separate stages. These are described below.

(1)    Departure from Colon: After daily follow-ups, eventually the PCC will give about one day's notice of when the transit is scheduled and which, if any, other yachts will join in the transit. That's the time to spring into action. If not already done, fenders have to be prepared and, if not onboard, four 200 feet lines have to be rented. Both are compulsory and necessary to make a safe transit. Next, the skippers of the vessels that will travel together meet to discuss the rafting arrangements. Usually, the largest vessel with the strongest engine would take the center position in a three-vessel raft. Agreement would be reached about which vessels will raft to port and to starboard of the center-vessel and which vessels will prepare in advance the bow, stern and spring lines. Each vessel is required to have, in the addition to the skipper, four adults onboard who will be the line handlers when going through the locks.

Colon: Waiting, Preparing and Departing

Waiting for the transit

Preparation: The Advisor arrives

Three vessels depart for the transit

The PCC advises vessels to be ready at a certain time in the afternoon for the departure. It appears that the specified time is about one hour before the actual departure time because the pilot boat, that delivers a PCC Advisor to each yacht making the transit, always seems to be an hour late. Recreational vessels are not assigned pilots. Pilots would take sole control of large commercial vessels. Advisors "advise" and are therefore not legally responsible. On arrival they will introduce themselves to the skipper and every member of the crew. They quickly assess the capabilities of skipper and crew and, if satisfied, will agree with the pre-arranged rafting arrangements. While they watch progress, they actually provide minimal directions, usually only in respect of direction and speed. The departure from The Flats at 17:00 means that the group arrives in the proximity of the Gatun Locks by about 18:00 hours. It allows time for rafting the vessels together just before the locks are opened. Usually, there is some waiting for the down-locking vessels to clear the locks.

(2)    Gatun Locks: When permission is given for the rafted boats to enter the first lock it is nearly dark. Bright overhead lights illuminate the area. Usually, a large container vessel is the first to enter the lock. The locks measure 1,000 feet and with shorter freighters in the locks there is space for the smaller vessels in the back. When approaching the locks the PCC line handlers on shore are ready to throw, what is called a Monkey Fist or Monkey Nut attached to a thin line. Two lines will be thrown from both the left and right sides of the lock. The crew members onboard, who work as the vessel's line handlers, will attach these to the heavier 200 feet lines. The PCC line handlers will walk along with the raft as it enters the lock and when it is in position will haul in the heavy lines from the raft and loop them over the lock's bollards.

Gatun Locks: Going Towards, Entering and Exiting the locks

Daylight: On our way to Gatun Locks

Dusk: Entering the first lock at Gatun

Evening: Leaving the last lock at Gatun

Locking-up is an unnerving experience. As soon as the lock gates are closed the lock valves are opened to fill the lock and the water rushes in with great force which causes considerable turbulence in the lock. This causes great tension on the lines both those that tie the raft together and those that hold the raft in the middle of the lock. With the water level in the lock rising lines continuously have to tightened  When the water level is up to the same level as that in the next lock the gates to that next lock will be opened. The PCC line handlers will throw the raft's lines back into the water but will keep hold of the attached light lines. Those on the rafted boats will pull the heavy lines back on board. The center boat will start up its engine and slowly move the raft into the next adjoining lock. The PCC line handlers will walk along onshore with the raft. Again, once in position the lines will be pulled and placed on the next set of bollards. The whole routine repeats itself three times to transit the three-chamber Gatun Lock system. The vessels will have been lifted by about 36 feet. When locking is completed it will be about 20:00 hours. The raft then breaks up and the PCC Advisors direct the yachts to a few large mooring buoys in Lake Gatun about 30 minutes above the locks. The yachts tie up to the mooring buoys for an overnight stay and the Advisors are picked up by the Pilot Boat to go home for the night. They'll announce that they will be back in the morning by 6:00 AM. They will arrive by about 7:00 AM.

(3)    Overnight at Gatun Lake: Few boats cruise with a sufficient number of crew to provide their own four line handlers. Therefore, virtually all seek volunteers to assist them during the transit. The helpers come from boats that are waiting their turn for making the transit. It is good experience to make such a trial run before making the transit with one's own boat. The arrangement is that the volunteers join the departing yachts at The Flats or PCYC well before the Advisors come on board. They sleep on the "guest" vessel for the overnight stay on Gatun Lake. This can be problematic for small boats that do not necessarily have enough berths for that many people. The tradition is that the host provides an evening meal when on Gatun Lake and snacks while underway. They also provide liquid refreshments. It's unwise to drink from any onboard water supply because more often than not it might have been topped up at many places around the world and could be unsafe. It was rather hot onboard and a few mosquitoes that had accompanied the boat from Gatun Locks, that appears to be their breeding place, were a nuisance. Fortunately, Yellow Fever and Malaria that savaged the early construction force of the canal are no longer a major hazard.

Gatun Lake: Overnight stay just above locks

Tying the boats up for the night

Walter (Atlantis) and Bernd (in background

Time for eating and a drink

In the evening stories get told, experience shared, cruising plans discussed, and glasses filled and emptied. It will be pitch black all around except for the overhead lights of the Gatun Locks in the distance, a few anchored tankers that are not allowed to travel at night and lights of the pilot station onshore. The water is as flat as a sheet and some, despite the possible presence of fresh water alligators, would like to take a dip and some do. Later we learned that this is illegal and if caught by the Water Police could lead to the temporary impounding of the host vessel. Skippers and crews are tired because of the excitement and strain of the preparation for and transit through the Locks. Slowly they fade away to places which they think are most comfortable and cool to sleep. The cockpit is a popular place. Soon all is quiet and the ship's lights are dimmed. 

(4)    Pedro Miguel Locks: The first rays of light can be seen at about 6:00 AM. Shrieking birds fly from their roosts in search for food. Suddenly, as if in stereo, a group of unseen monkeys declare their presence and then fall silent. Another tribe, in a different location, answers the call as if to define and defend their territory. The skippers of the host boats prepare morning tea and provide light snacks. The Advisors are due to arrive at any moment to assist the yachts for the final and most important stage of the transit. Soon the pilot boat appears and drops off an Advisor on each of the three yachts in the raft. As a matter of courtesy the Advisor will ask if the vessels are ready to depart. It doesn't take five minutes before engines are started, mooring lines are lifted from the bollards on the mooring buoys and the vessels are underway.

The Main Track: It's time to start the final stage of the transit

Sunrise over Gatun anchorage

Pilot arrives for the continuation

The Advisor points to the direction that the boats are to take because they will not be following the main canal route but instead follow a narrow track that follows an abandoned railway line, probably used during the construction of the canal but which is now deep under water. It passes close to several small islands in this part of Gatun Lake. Some solitary monkeys can be seen in the top of trees as if they are keeping watch. Attempts are made to photograph them but they are really too far away and they are difficult to see. We saw two alligators paddling leisurely on the surface of the water to quickly dive and disappear when our vessels came too close.

From the Gatun Anchorage via the Banana Trail to the main Canal

Time for morning coffee

Observing monkeys in the trees

Eventually, this route joins the main canal which is apparent from the huge container vessels and tankers that either are overtaking or are approaching from the Pacific side. These large vessels have a large tugboat at the stern, basically to pull the vessel sideways when it needs to change course along the winding course of the Canal. At first it looks a bit alarming when these large vessels are so close but it becomes soon apparent that there is plenty of space and no wake from the passing vessels as they move at minimum speed just sufficient to maintain steerage.

Approaching the main Canal

Sailing towards the main canal

Tony & Walter on the lookout

"Little Mermaid" tagging along with outboard

Motoring near the main canal

After several hours following the main canal the magnificent structure of the new Centennial Bridge (Puente Centenario) appears around the corner. The construction of the bridge was completed months ago but the approaches to the bridge are still under construction. When put into use it will be the second bridge to span the Panama Canal after the impressive but more traditional "Bridge of the Americas" that was built a long time ago. For those that watched the Panama Canal webcams to view our transit the Centennial Bridge is beautifully illuminated at night. Just after having passed the bridge it is time for the yachts to be rafted together again. As there usually is some waiting time, and to keep the yachts away from the large vessels that will shortly clear the next lock, the rafting up is often done at the docks used by the PCC Pilot Boats. These are just before the Pedro Miguel Lock. During our practice transit onboard Libelle one of the yachts in the flotilla had an engine failure and the center boat, "Inti" out of Perth - Western Australia, backtracked to tow the immobilized boat back to join the raft that was preparing for the down-lock of the single Pedro Miguel Lock. While waiting for permission to enter the lock the raft slowly circled around and was then directed to stay close to shore to stay out of the way of a number of cruise ships that were exiting the lock.

Centennial Bridge just before the Pedro Miguel Lock

Down-locking is an entirely different experience than up-locking as at Gatun Locks. Once the raft is in position and secured in the lock the lock gates are closed and valves are opened to drain the water out of the single lock into the Mirafloras Lake. Because it is about noontime the locking is more enjoyable because it is so much easier to see what is happening all around. The water soon drains out as the boats in the lock are lowered by about 12 feet. There is little turbulence but is still necessary to watch the lines to ensure that the raft can lower without putting undue strain on the cleats and chocks. It has to be kept in mind that these integral parts of a boat are designed to hold that single boat in place. Obviously, holding up to three boats in place can put breaking point stresses on these vital parts. Once the water in the lock is down to the level of Miraflores Lake the other lock gate is opened. The engine of the center boat is started, lines are let go from shore and hauled on board and the raft leaves the lock.

Rafting up again for the passage through Pedro Miguel and Miraflores Locks and Lake


Circling around waiting for INTI to deliver the broken-down Octagon (Blue weathercloth)


Rafted together on a dock waiting for permission to proceed to Pedro Miguel Lock

On the left side of the canal just past the lock is what remains of the Pedro Miguel Yacht Club (PMYC). PMYC used to be a good location for transiting yachts to take a break for a few days before locking down the twin-chamber Miraflores Locks. Being in fresh water it will kill barnacles and other saltwater marine growth below the water line. However, PMYC is being forced out of business by PCC, ostensibly because of security reasons. The club may not accept any incoming vessels and only a few remaining local yachts may continue to use this marina. Obviously this has destroyed the commercial viability of PMYC.

(5)    Miraflores Locks: Because of the very short distance from the Pedro Miguel Lock to the Miraflores Lock the raft stays tied together and, generally, within 30 to 45 minutes they would be allowed to enter this final set of locks. Downlocking should be just as simple and smooth as it was in the Pedro Miguel Lock. Unfortunately, it wasn't. The trouble started, initially, when on entering the first chamber the PCC line handlers onshore put the raft's lines on bollards that were not exactly opposite each other. This meant that the raft was unable to center properly in the lock. Eventually, the lines were repositioned. During the transit with "Atlantis", our own vessel, we were accompanied by a small 27 footer named "Little Mermaid" as well as by a much larger yacht "Megwan" that took up the center position. As Little Mermaid was comparatively small and therefore its fittings not strong enough to hold the lines to shore it was the center boat "Megwan" that took care of the lines to the left hand lock wall. Unfortunately, one of the crew on the center boat decided to use a power winch to tighten its port bow line. Obviously, this was no match for the line handlers onboard "Atlantis" who were to tighten the starboard bowline manually with the same force. As a result the whole raft was pulled to the left hand side of the chamber with "Little Mermaid" being only about 10 feet from the lock wall. It was at risk of being crushed against the wall if the raft moved any further to the left. The most senior Advisor on the three boats sprung into action and instructed "Atlantis" to apply power in reverse in the attempt to straiten the raft. Tension onboard the center boat "MegWan" had risen and an inexperienced female crew member had a nervous breakdown because she, apparently, was blamed for the error. It is, of course, not unusual in sailing circles for a skipper to transfers his tension to another crew member - often a wife or girlfriend. Fortunately, after some adjustments, boats and crews were under control again before leaving the first chamber.

The raft smoothly entered the last and final locking chamber at Miraflores Locks. PCC has its Visitor Center at the Miraflores Locks, halfway between the first and second locking chambers. There are always a lot of visitors there to look at lock operations. One of the best webcams for viewing lock operation on the Internet - virtually in real time, is located on a hill behind the Visitor Center. PCC offers to adjust, on request, the viewing angle of the webcam. Our PCC Advisor had asked the Visitor Center to focus the Miraflores webcam on our raft. However, as those of our webcam viewers at home that were following our transit noticed, the webcam pictures that were shown were very unclear. It is not clear whether the webcam can actually zoom in on particular vessels as requested. The poor quality could possibly mean that the webcams are of an outdated design or that the PCC webcam operator doesn't take the many requests very seriously.

The last stages of the Panama Canal Transit

Mirafloris Control Building

Traveling through a lock

Mirafloris Visitor Center

 Locomotives for hauling large ships

Closer up view

That's how big they are!

Entering the last lock at Miraflores

The last lock nearly drained (and a leak)

Leaving the last lock at Miraflores

The wide open space when passing the "Bridge of the Americas" at the Pacific end of the Panama Canal

(6)    To Balboa and beyond: A stage of euphoria hits those in the final lock because this is the last stage of the transit and when the lock gates open the raft will enter the Pacific. As soon as the water inside the last lock chamber is at the same level as the Pacific (there is a tidal difference of about 12 feet) the lock gates are opened. The center boat propels the raft slowly out of the lock. The Advisors soon indicated that the raft can now disband. This was quickly accomplished and the close bond between the three yachts was broken with each ready to go its own way. Just past the Miraflores locks is the high "Bridge of the Americas." It's a great sight, not dissimilar to the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Boats pass underneath and the horizon is wide open. Cruisers have several options beyond the Bridge of the Americas.


Mooring field in front of Balboa Yacht Club (BYC)

View from shore to BYC Mooring Field

Usually, all have at least a brief stop at the Balboa Yacht Club  (BYC) at the left side of the waterway to drop-off any volunteer line handlers who are returning by bus to Colon to rejoin their own boats to wait for their turn to make the transit. The club is also the place to return any rented lines and fenders that were used during the transit. BYC has a large mooring field where boats can remain for a few days or a longer rest after completing the canal transit. It is said that mooring at the BYC has the possible disadvantage of the Harbor Police insisting that vessels that already got all clearances for leaving Panama in Cristobal, may again be instructed to check in and then clear out again when leaving. BYC is a good location for topping up water and fuel tanks. Alternatively, boats can immediately travel a further two miles or so to the anchorage at Flamenco Rock. This anchorage is reasonably well sheltered from all directions except from winds from the northerly quadrant. Both locations at BYC or Flamenco Rock provide the opportunity to re-provision for the onward voyage or buy spare parts in Panama City. The Flamenco anchorage gives access to the long seawall that has a marina nearby, a marine store and a number of restaurants (including a Pizza Parlor).

Relaxing and celebrating the successful transit

Tony & Walter toasting the successful transit

Anchored near Flamenco Rock

Crew of Vite-Vite and Atlantis at Pizza Party

Those in a hurry can proceed immediately into the Gulf of Panama either in the direction of Baja California in Mexico for further travel to Hawaii and then in a northeast direction back to the US West Coast or they can travel south to Ecuador or other places on South America's West coast. Others go direct to the Galapagos Islands or immediately start the big jump to the Marquises and the rest of the South Pacific. Those traveling more leisurely may linger around at Panama's Las Perlas Islands - as we did with S/Y Atlantis.

Shore leave for the crew: Visiting Old Panama City

Square near the old cathedral

Tony & Walter at City Fountain

Shopping Street in the Old City



CRUISING THE LAS PERLAS

After a pleasant three-day stay at Flamenco anchorage we started our cruise to the Las Perlas Islands. We weighed anchor at eight in the morning. There was between 15 and 20 knots of wind. That's a lot more wind than we had felt since we left Colon. The first destination was the island of Contadora. It is a relatively small island that has a good anchorage protected from the prevailing winds. Contadora has a small airstrip. Prior arrangements had been made for AussieWinlink to leave the Las Perlas islands by flying from Contadora to Panama City at the conclusion of the cruise and from there to fly back to Washington DC. Exploring Contadora island, therefore, made a lot of sense. S/Y Atlantis arrived at the Contadora anchorage by about 15:00 hours. While underway we were accompanied by a few pods of dolphins. There is a close to eight feet tidal range at Contadora and therefore it is necessary to anchor well offshore. There is no marina and not even a pier on Contadora for boats to tie up to or for dinghies to land. The only way to get onshore is by landing a dinghy through the surf onto the beach. That is not a mean feat if  there is much surf. It was too early to worry about that now but we just hoped that when we had to land with luggage and dressed for travel by air that the surf would have subdued.

Contadora Island

Villas on the beach

View from beach to anchorage

Modern Units on the beach

The Airline Office on Contadora

Contadora International School

Contradiction in terms: Mini - Super

We stayed onboard for the rest of that day and enjoyed the scenery. The shoreline, including the beach and trees and houses on the ridge are very scenic. What made it interesting was that there were about eight other boats anchored near the beach. It was surprising also to see just slightly above the tree line several large antennas like those used by radio amateurs. It turned out to be the station of Gunter (HP1XX), an expatriate of German origin who lives on Contadora with his wife as members of the small international community. There must be a sufficient number of children from other countries because on a subsequent visit we sighted an embryonic International School. Gunter runs the amateur radio Pacific Island Net that welcomes and assist, primarily, German-speaking cruisers of which there were a remarkably large number on both sides of the Panama Canal and in the Las Perlas.

Visiting Gunter (HP1XX) the Sysop of the "Pacific Island Net"

Gunter (HP1XX) House on the Cliff

View from the house to the sea

View from Atlantis to the beach

Gunter running the Pacific Island Net

Part of Gunter's antenna farm

Discussing  cruising and amateur radio

The next day after breakfast, we took our dinghy to shore and had a safe landing without getting too wet. Just above the beach is a nice restaurant and small hotel. However, both were closed. We walked the road and found the small International School and another few miles took us to the other side of the island where we found several hotels but with very few guests. Nearly all bars and restaurants were closed and some had "For Sale" signs. The hotel was being renovated and the units prepared for marketing as "Timeshares". There are two small general stores. One of these opened for only a few hours in the afternoon. The other side of the island also has the small offices of the two airlines that serve the island twice a day using Twin Otter and small Cessna planes. Arrangements had been made for the German crews of several anchored boats to visit Gunter at his place to talk about their cruising plans and exchange information. We were offered cold drinks, looked at Gunter's amateur radio shack and we all gathered on the terrace that overlooked the beach and the anchored boats.

Visiting uninhabited islands in the Las Perlas Island Group

Anchored off a deserted beach

Another quiet beach

Walter, Gisela and Fish Vendor

Tony counting found Treasures

Enough driftwood to build a log cabin

Departure Time:Twin Otter to Panama City

Back on the boat we felt like eating fish and we jumped into the dinghy and motored towards a rocky outcrop that promised to be a haven for fish. Walter went in the water with spear gun and within minutes came back with the first fish. Within half an hour we had three fish that would feed us, three people, for two days. After dinner we agreed that we would sail the next day to the island of Espiritu Santos which was said to have a lovely anchorage. After dinner we listened to the Pacific Island Net and accessed Winlink to get the short-range weather forecasts for our area. It didn't sound to promising with light variable winds only. That's exactly the way it turned out. It was clearly not feasible to sail to Espiritu Santos and we therefore decided to instead spend time at some nearby uninhabited islands in the northern part of the Las Perlas. After a pleasant stay that includes exploring the islands and swimming at virtually deserted beached we returned to Contadora for Tony to start the flight back to Washington DC. He left the next day and stayed overnight in Panama City shopping for souvenirs and then flew back home. Atlantis also left and continued her track through the Las Perlas. She then continued to Ecuador where she will remain for the next six months or so. The next stage should take them to the Galapagos, the Marquises and, who knows, eventually to Australia and New Zealand.

THE CRUISING COMMUNITY

One of the pleasures and most interesting parts of cruising is meeting fellow cruisers from many corners of the earth. Here are just a few notes about some of the boats and crews met (in alphabetical order).

Atlantis: Walter and Gisela, the hosts for the cruise here reported, are in the seventh year of a circumnavigation. They started their cruise with a three-year exploration of the Mediterranean  They then crossed the Atlantic for the Caribbean where they spent a year. The next year took them to the US East Coast where they anchored near the Statue of Liberty Park in New Jersey and later on took a mooring on the Hudson River near the 79th Street. From there they saw the fireworks display that were part of the 4th July Independence Day celebrations. After a short sojourn to visit relatives in Germany, they returned to the Bahamas and from there went to Trinidad with frequent stops at many of the islands along the way. (AussieWinlink joined Atlantis to cruise the Dutch ABC islands. See: Media Release 52.) After a further year in the Caribbean the decision was made to leave the Atlantic and the Caribbean behind and enter the Pacific by transiting the Panama Canal.    

INTI:
This is an interesting ferrocement boat with nice lines and she looked in perfect condition. It is single-handed by Ian who sailed out of Perth, Western Australia. INTI was the center boat in the raft that we joined as line-handlers to gain experience before our own transit with Atlantis. During the transit INTI made the Samaritarian gesture to sail back to assist another boat in the flotilla, Octagon, that had lost engine power. INTI towed Octagon all the way to the Balboa Yacht Club. Fellow cruisers were aghast that the skipper of Octagon did not even offer a drink or a simple "Thank You." Such lack of gratitude is most unusual in the cruising community. (Incidentally, Perth is of significance to the Winlink international network because VK6KPS ,with Phil as the SysOp, was the first permanent Winlink station to be established in Australia.) 

Libelle: This was our host boat for the first Panama Canal transit. Tim out of Sydney, Australia had also been single-handing. He had sailed already from Sydney via Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, the Red Sea. the Mediterranean,  to then cross the Atlantic and cruise the Caribbean. The Panama Canal presented the start of the return trip across the Pacific back to Australia. In Colon, Phillip, an Australian friend taking advantage of his long service leave, joined Libelle as crew to assist during the long stretches across the Pacific back to Australia.

(Meeting Tim was of great personal interest to AussieWinlink. Tim had played a major role in constructing and operating the Illawong Alpine Lodge in Australia's Snowy Mountains. It is the most remote lodge in the alpine areas. All building materials had to be carried by hand over small raging creeks and up steep slopes. AussieWinlink's founder had played a similar lead role in establishing an alpine lodge in the nearby Guthega Village that is a few miles downstream from Illawong Lodge on Australia's famed Snowy River.)

Little Mermaid: This is the smallest boat, at 27 feet, that was met on this cruise. It is a homebuilt craft skippered by a young woman from Slovania. It is powered by a single outboard engine. In a way, it was surprising that it was allowed to make the Panama Canal transit as the Panama Canal Commission had to be satisfied that the vessel can keep up, under its own power, with others in the flotilla. Actually, the skipper and crew of Little Mermaid did exceptionally well. The only minor drawback was that this small boat with its proportionately light weight deck fittings could not be relied upon to hold the docking lines in the locks. Accordingly, it was rafted to the port side of the raft and just came along for the ride. This, of course, meant that it was at the mercy of the crews on the other boats, Megwan and Atlantis, in respect of its safety, when in the lock chambers. At one stage Little Mermaid was about ten feet away from the lock's wall. The imbalance in centering the raft in the lock chamber was caused by the center boat using its capstan to tighten its line to the wall. This created so much pull with the crew on Atlantis unable to tighten its line to the same tension by hand.

Megwan:  A rather large vessel with a lot of crew, apparently with several different nationalities. It didn't appear to be a happy ship with many arguments, some shouting and hysterical outbursts. It requires a strong and knowledgeable skipper to run a clean ship. Maybe the pressure of the transit was just too much to take. It is hoped that the crew found peace and tranquility in the South Pacific.

Nis Randers: This small boat measuring 27 feet over deck was the home for five people. The skipper, Bernd, is a goldsmith and he and his first mate, Anne, have a gold shop in Germany. The skipper initially expressed a wish to circumnavigate the globe in 12 months but then decided that that was too short a time for the trip and asked his wife and three children to come with him for a two-year circumnavigation. The eldest child, a son - Daniel, is 17 years old and the two younger ones are about six and seven years old. Bernd, the skipper and his son came along as line-handlers on the transit of Atlantis. They were all hoping to complete the circumnavigation within the two-year time period set aside and then reopen their gold shop and design jewelry based on the native designs that they observed while cruising..

Octagon: Octagon is a British-flagged vessel. The skipper and crew remained aloof and didn't really mix or speak with others. It suffered an embarrassing breakdown of its engine when approaching the Centennial Bridge. INTI, a vessel in our three-boat flotilla, turned back to tow Octagon so that it could stay with us to complete the remainder of the transit through the Pedro Miguel and Miraflores locks. INTI escorted Octagon all the way to the Balboa Yacht Club anchorage.

Quest: Quest is skippered by Bill, a single-hander who was just about to complete his circumnavigation by returning from Balboa to the US West Coast. Atlantis had assisted Bill at his earlier transit and Bill, in return, traveled by bus from Balboa to assist Atlantis with its transit. Bill is the proverbial gentleman cruiser who is always ready to help others. Unfortunately, while anchored at Flamenco Rock, he was suffering from severe pain in his ankle and had to visit a doctor before he would be able to complete the last leg of his trip.

Vite Vite: This is a catamaran which the present owners had recently bought in Trinidad. A delightful sailing couple, Tristan and Ilonka, and their young son - Linus, have started the first stage of the circumnavigation having reached Colon and transited the Panama Canal. They are now in the Marquises. Tristan is a computer engineer and he is much in demand by the cruising community, especially now since many have computers onboard for navigation and electronic communication purposes. They run a website, in German, that describes their travels and shows photographs. It can be found at www.vitevite.info.


LINK WITH WINLINK

One may well ask what this story has to do with the purpose for which AussieWinlink was established, that is, to expand the Winlink amateur digital communication network in Australia and, more generally, in the Southern Hemisphere. Well, the purpose of the trip was to observe the extent to which cruisers avail of Winlink and SailMail HF communication systems while on extended journeys. The findings are: (1) that more and more cruisers now use electronic navigational systems as an auxiliary to using hardcopy charts; and (2) many, if not all cruisers, use one or another onboard HF radio communication system. Most work with the free Winlink system or the Not-for-profit SailMail system. A few of the well-heeled cruisers use satellite telephones but these do not provide the range of services offered by Winlink and Sailmail. Of particular interest for this trip was the operational procedures that was used by cruisers. Of particular importance were: (1) the transceiver power output; and (2) avoidance of interference to other radio spectrum users. Regrettably it was found that some Users could perform better in two areas: (1) they should always ensure before transmitting that the frequency they want to use it not already occupied by other users; and (2) generally, they could transmit at substantial lower power settings. The latter, because of its importance, will be covered in a separate AussieWinlink Media Release.

Finally, for those who would like to learn more about the Panama Canal a "Google" identifies thousands of Internet websites that have "Panama Canal" in the title or text. A few interesting websites can be visited by following the links shown below:

Uniform Record Locator (URL) Description
www.pancanal.com/eng/photo/camera-java.html Official Webcam Web Page
www.mop.gob.pa/album/album.htm Click the timeline to view Bridge construction
www.tylersterritory.com/travel/namerica/canal_cruise/canal/canal-01.html Private website. Follow link to Panama Canal
http://www.expedia.com/ Maps>Find a Map>Search: World-Panama Canal
Panama Canal - Profile Map Panama Canal Profile
www.panamacanal.com/map.htm Good description of Panama Canal
Panama travel | Lonely Planet World Guide Panama Travel Guide

AussieWinlink
8 May 2005


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